Reviewed by Anita Bhagwandas
Set the scene
Nestled in the foothills of Baden-Baden, against a backdrop of the Black Forest and ornate gothic-tinged buildings, the 19th-century marvel that is Brenners Park-Hotel and Spa is quite something to behold. Exquisite service means that two impeccable doormen almost carry me from my cab to reception. The main hotel is the epitome of olde-world opulence. Approaching Villa Stéphanie – the residential medi-spa adjacent to Brenners – you notice the gear-change to a more modern aesthetic. It’s still luxurious and shares its spa facilities with the main hotel, but certainly feels like a separate entity.
A direct flight from London to Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden’s small airport, takes an hour and half, perhaps that’s why there's a strong British contingent here, alongside global clientele (guests from the Middle East, Russia, USA, UK and Germany.) “Visitors tend to be people over 35, who need a break, an escape and a better daily routine,” Head of Spa Timo Maeir tells me. ”So many guests have a work routine and not a life routine, which can result in mental health issues. We help create a home from home with a fully customised stay.”
What's the backstory?
That there’s a healing centre here in Baden-Baden isn’t a surprise – it’s on the Unesco World Heritage List of great European spa towns (you can even take a dip in the nearby Friedrichsbad thermal baths that date back to the 19th century, though, as a gentle warning, swimsuits are optional).
Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa is part of Oetker Collection Masterpiece Hotels, which also includes Le Bristol Paris, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc and The Lanesborough in London to name but a few. Villa Stéphanie is a Beaux-Arts era annex of the hotel, offering a spa and residential wellness facility.
What sets Villa Stéphanie aside – both in terms of its spa offering, and medical credentials – is Haus Julius, part of the wellness facilities that houses a number of medical, dental and aesthetic practitioners. It’s Head of Medical Care (he’s always worth waiting for when you visit) is Dr Harry König, a physician and naturopathic doctor, who practises integrative medicine with a mix of techy diagnostic equipment, bloodwork analysis and holistic practices to help solve a host of medical issues. He’s a firm believer in ‘the prevention of illness, rather than cure,’ and with clients across the globe flying in to visit him, perhaps there’s something to the idea that this isn’t just a place to just ‘fix’ your problems, it’s more of a lifestyle reset.
What’s the wellness concept?
Everything at Villa Stéphanie is geared towards switching off entirely. There's a ‘digital detox’ switch to power down the internet, a salon for meals and relaxing, plus robes/slippers to wear all day, and housekeeping service feels bespoke and intuitive.
The five-floor medi-spa takes up 5,000 square metres and though there’s a huge pool, hammam, sauna (and ladies sauna), treatment rooms and gym, this is a medi-spa at its core. There are nutritional experts on hand to tailor-make menus, so that you rarely feel like you’re being deprived, quite the opposite, even a simple salad feels like a luxurious event.
This isn’t an aggressive bootcamp, or soul-sucking cleanse, it’s for those who want the elegance and facilities of a hotel and spa, but with the clinical excellence of a private hospital. So what medical advice is on hand? Most often that starts with a consultation with Dr König, tests and analysis (there’s blood testing facilities on site) and then potentially referrals to other practitioners to see during your stay, including gynaecologist Dr Petra Dehm who specialises in naturopathic healing and hormone therapy, plus dentistry, ophthalmology, cardiology and many more. Prescriptions are even brought to your door – this is the place to come to fix something fast and see results.
Of course there’s also a traditional spa experience available too, with massages and facial treatments by Augustinus Bader, Aqua organic and Skin Ceuticals. There’s physiotherapy, sports massage, Reiki, personal training (there’s a private gym too) and activities including cycling, hikes in the Black Forest, yoga, meditation, and kickboxing and more available on request.
What are the signature treatments?
At Haus Julius the medical centre, the famed MOT created by Dr König, called The Kings Way, and is a 10-day residential programme that combines modern medicine and naturopathy, with a bespoke diet, medical treatments, spa treatments and daily medical supervision. At the spa, the Stéphanie Signature Massage is a thorough massage tailored to your needs and areas of concern, and has a focus on restoration and healing. Although it’s relaxing and expertly administered, it's more functional and purpose-led – there’s less of the ritual elements like a relaxation room or atmospheric twinkling lights that you might find at a more beauty-focussed spa. You can pick from 50 or 70 minutes, although both feel a little short compared to the usual 60 or 90-minute massage. One thing to note too: the sauna, gym and pool are a little walk away and slightly separate from the treatment facilities.
Which therapist should I book?
There is a plethora of experts here. All the therapists are highly trained as you’d expect – but Othman Challouf is particularly popular for massage at the spa. If you’re looking for cosmetic treatments then aesthetics doctor Dr Yusuf Yildirim has an international clientele who visit for their yearly aesthetic MOT and his state of the art cosmetic procedures (he’s known for very subtle, indetectable work). The dental centre is absolutely worth a visit too, where hygienist Birgit Stalla is admirably thorough.
What makes it different?
Getting answers to health issues can take a while, but with everything under one roof, it does make the perfect place for a health makeover (and beauty too if you’re interested in the cosmetic side). It’s a lovely place to relax, detox and enjoy the spa facilities but the selling point is the top class health experts and the fusing of holistic and modern medicine in a sublime way. It makes getting better or feeling well, much easier, and the housekeeping service feels both intuitive and homely.
What else do they offer?
Nearby is the Frider Burda museum with modern and contemporary artworks, housing pieces by Picasso, Gerhard Richter and Jackson Pollock. Germany’s largest opera house, the Festspielhaus, and Marlene Dietrich called Baden-Baden’s Kurhaus “the most beautiful casino in the world”, so that’s worth a tour.
The Salon located in Villa Stéphanie is like a quirky library in a manor house, and also serves healthy fare for the residential spa clientele. But if you’re craving something more, the Brenners hotel has a Michelin-starred restaurant and an elegant piano bar.
Where do you stay?
Within Villa Stéphanie there are 15 rooms, so it feels like you are staying in something in-between a hotel and an elegant country house. Loro Piana fabrics festoon the interiors, with calming duck egg and cream shades. Many rooms overlook the Oos river and Lichtentaler Allee that’s on the doorstep and even in the cooler seasons (autumn is particularly pretty) it still remains a beautiful escape from city life.
Anything else to mention?
There’s the option of a private gym and ladies-only sauna. The spa and rooms also have lift access.
Final word
To absolutely make the most of your time here, lean into the digital detox and leave work at home. I left with a far greater understanding of my health, what I needed to function properly and a total reset on my self care routines. It was everything I was promised and more.
Healing Holidays (healingholidays.com/condenast; 020 7843 3592) can arrange a 7-night Detox & Weight Loss programme from £6,579 per person sharing, including transfers, full board accommodation and inclusions of the programme.
